Hakone!

Evan and I just got back from a short, but super relaxing, night at the onsen. And it reminded me, in my completely zen-ed out state that I never posted pictures and stories from Hakone, another great onsen experience.

So, here goes. Especially since I will hopefully be having another onsen adventure in a few days in the snowy mountains of Sapporo!!!

Hakone was a great day on my day off this week, though I'm not convinced the "Romance Car" train from Shinjuku is really worth the extra money. It's not like it really got me there any faster, and I slept the whole way both times.

First, I jumped right on the Tozan Railway which does these amazing old-fashioned switchbacks as it slowly makes its way up the mountain. Really cool. But keyword: SLOW. Definitely a fun touristy thing to do, and a rather interesting point that public transportation can be feasible even in mountain valleys, but not a really convenient mode of transport.

I stopped off at Gora Park at the upper terminus of the Railway, and it was quite nice, though the outdoor garden was rather blah in winter. But the park had 4 greenhouses that were quite stunning in their array of flora.

Then I jumped on the next part of the transport circuit, the funicular, or cablecar. Again, not that exciting, and surprisingly slow. But it all kicked into high gear when I transferred to the Hakone ropeway and started really enjoying my day of free-pass-transportation.

Especially when we crested the ridge and saw this to the left and below us:

And then my old friend on the right side of the car:

Seriously, I'm gonna get back to the States and question why I have so many darn photos of the thing. It's like how tourists feel after they visit the Statue of Liberty. You just get so darn snap happy!

So I got off at Owakudani, and it was WINDY! I had thought about doing a 2-hour hike down the mountain to the lake, but the wind and cold rightly convinced me otherwise. But I did make the short 10 minute trek to the volcanic steam vents and pools where I got some nasty whiffs of sulfur and incredible pictures (like this kitten in the steam -- looks like a movie, ne?).

However, I'm not really sure why another tourist got so offended when I "Sumimasen"-ed him and asked him for a "shashin". Seriously. He looked at me and said, "Uh, I'm Korean". Like I'd be absolutely nuts to speak Japanese to anyone while WE'RE IN JAPAN. I mean, don't get me wrong, I'm learning the differences in cultural genetics and am somewhat able to distinguish Asian nationalities, but I'm not really sure what I did wrong by saying "Excuse Me" in Japanese IN JAPAN. WTF, Korean man who spoke English? WTF?

Doesn't really matter... I got my picture after all!

Now, we all know I have an egg thing (see here if not), so I wasn't particularly interested in trying the kuro tamago (onsen egg) that is so popular. Basically it's an egg that's been hard-boiled in the hot sulfur springs and the shell turns black. It's supposed to add 7 years of longevity to your life. But I just couldn't try one for myself. Especially since you had to buy them in packs of 5 for 500 yen.

BUT.

In the wonderful Japanese style that pervades this country, and in reminiscence of the random man in Shinjuku Goen (see here), I got on the next ropeway to head down to Lake Ashi, and the Japanese man next to me felt it extremely necessary to give me one of his own. I didn't really understand at the time why he said "nana" and showed me seven with his fingers... did he get seven by accident when there were 5? Until I got home, did more research, and learned about the whole longevity thing... Glad to know the Japanese are worried I'm gonna die too young!

Yet, DILEMMA. Mow I was awkwardly sitting in a trapped car dangling above the mountainside wondering if it was more disrespectful not to eat the egg or to start cracking it open in a confined mode of transportation?

Luckily, I took advantage of the stop halfway down to get off and do something totally BACA. That's right. I ate the darn egg. And video'd my self the whole time for your viewing pleasure.

After THAT experience (shocking, I know), I reboarded the ropeway and made my way to the pirate ship that would sail across Lake Ashi to two of the main towns of Hakone National Park. Going into the trip, I thought that would be the most obnoxious part of the tour, but to be honest, in a weird way, it was my favorite. It was SO touristy, it became fun. And I met some nice Saitama Japanese who took pictures with me and chatted in the cold windy sunshine.

Then I saw the cutest stray dog ever trying to hi-jack a ride on the ship and being shooed away by the Japanese workers,

stopped at the old Hakone gate of the old Tokkaido road,

took in the view from the top of the park, and walked down the giant-Cedar-lined path of the historic Tokkaido Road,

all the whilst with beautiful vistas of Lake Ashi and Mt. Fuji.

I probably could have continued exploring, but I was looking forward to heading back to Hakone-Yumoto in the valley and visiting the onsen at a ryokan, so I jumped on the express bus down the mountain and did just that. And what a beautiful hour and a half soak that was! Too bad I couldn't take pictures of the gorgeous pools (what with the nakedness and all).

They had these giant teacup looking baths that one person could immerse himself in. And an amazing outdoor shower, plus a stunning pool up a flight of stairs and nestled in the mountain. A bit expensive, but well worth the experience. Especially with this awaiting me!

And on that note, I'm taking my zen to bed!

Story Time

"Souvenir!" the Japanese man said. "Souvenir for you!"

In reply, I stood there perplexed but decided to hold out my palm and the 60 yen in it anway.

And the Japanese man dropped two little seed pods in my palm on his way out of the park.

Whilst Evan and I stood there dumbfounded.

Actually, I think I shriek-laughed a few seconds later and the Japanese man may have turned back to look at me frozen there in shock and delight.

So I literally didn't MOVE and made Evan get my camera out my bag and take a picture. And here it is for your delight.

I FINALLY had my first random act of bizarre kindness from a Japanese person that everyone else seems to have on a regular basis. Seriously, a man just walked up to me, said "Souvenir" and dumped some seed pods into my hand. Like I had ANY CLUE what he was doing or why he was doing it.

I think the only thing more bizarre than that today was when we stopped outside the ATM before jumping on the train at the station. This man just kind of came up right beside me, stared, and was like, "Hello."

Naturally, my first instinct was that a fan was stalking me (they do that here), because, in the very strange Japanese way, he sidled right up beside me and then stopped and stared at my face.

Of course, it took me a moment to realize that this was not a crazy man, but one of our stage supervisors from work. Now basically that means when I see this man, he's in a suit and tie at my stage and he's usually delivering some sort of information (aka bad news). So I was not quite expecting this man in a baseball cap, sunglasses, and jeans to be my supervisor coming up to me at the ATM. And I certainly wasn't expecting to meet his stunning (and awkward in that first-time-meeting-you Japanese way) wife.

And I REALLY wasn't expecting to talk to them about our day, and figure out halfway through the conversation that my supervisor's wife actually speaks far more English than he does and that she would be acting as translator. Nor was I expecting a "Why are you going there?" filled with scorn and derision when I mentioned we'd be heading to Shinjuku Gyo-en for the day.

So I explained that we would be seeing the chrysanthemums that are on display in early November, and boy did chrysanthemums we see!

The park not only has beautifully landscaped flower beds, but it also had a beautiful Japanese garden with traditional teahouses and this, the Kyu-Goryo-Tei (Taiwan Pavilion).

And in an area usually "Not Open to the Public" (as listed on our map) they had a treasure trove of flowers on display. (Boy, I am glad we used our BGP and didn't listen to the map, since we were absolutely allowed to walk through the exhibit).

There also happens to be a beautiful French formal garden with long lanes of deciduous and rose beds. We took in the smell and the sight instead of taking pictures, but all it really made me long for was a Paris vacation and my mother's rosebed back on Everett Street.

There also is an "English Landscape Garden" which really cracks me up because the "landscaping" means basically that it is a giant open lawn with some trees on the side. And somebody got paid to "landscape" that. HA!

We did see some really giant Chestnut and Maple trees, but of course, my picture here won't quite do justice to their size and grandeur.

And that, my friends was how I had a lovely and most random day in Shinjuku, even if I woke up on the wrong side of the bed and couldn't quite be bothered about much of anything today.

In the end, I did manage to figure out that the seed pods had a little significance in that the giant ravens all over the park were eating them for the lunch. Which means that little Japanese man's souvenirs were actually a raven's lunch. Which I now have.

But hey. Who'd really turn down a free souvenir?