So, let me tell you a little bit about the rest of the Emperor's birthday.
Yes, it was, in fact, a Japanese national holiday yesterday, one a bit more sensical than all the others and every bit as busy. See, there are only 2 days a year the public is allowed to enter the Imperial Palace (without setting up a White House-style free tour in advance); but even better, the Emperor and his family make 3 appearances through the morning on his birthday (December 23rd for the current Emperor) and January 2nd (New Year's greeting).
Now Evan and I had planned for about 2 months to head to see the Emperor yesterday, and see him we did! Despite getting to the palace only 45 minutes before the opened the gates at 9:30, we were surprisingly near the front of the crowd lining up in front of the gates.
I mean, there are more people pounding down the gates at Disneyland at 8:45 in the morning, and I have proof!
Now after a bag search, metal detector by hand, and separate pat down (they are so wonderfully thorough here!), we waited until the opening of the gates in a peaceful organized crowd. I was surprised by the number of gai-jin in the crowd, until I remembered that many more people are able to travel over the holidays.
So we made our way in a crazy procession where no one ran, pushed, or scrambled to the front (for the most part) across the bridges and soon the path opened onto the main plaza of the palace.
Now I'll be honest, for being the "IMPERIAL PALACE" and closed off 363 days of the year, I was expecting something a tad more grandiose in architecture with an exclusive, special feel, yet the palace was quite spectacular and we made our way to our choice of spot for the next 45 minutes (until the royal family appeared). We were so fortunate and directly house center about 15 rows back.
We had somehow missed the passing out of paper Japanese flags to wave (but we got ones after the fact), and we also were in awe of the so-called "right-wing" conservatives there that day. As much as I can glean from my limited knowledge of Japanese politics, they are the faction that are fervent fans of the emperor... and that's about where my knowledge ends.
Nonetheless, it was thrilling to be surrounded by people completely silent and patient for 45 minutes who then went CRAZY when the Emperor appeared. The noise of the flags was deafening and the chants of the masses were awe-inspiring.
Then the Emperor (flanked by his wife, his son, the Crown Prince, and his wife the Crown Princess, as well as his other son and requisite wife) gave a 2-minute birthday speech and the cheers resumed. And then they got to go the green room for their 40 minute break before the next show.
Seriously, I joked with Evan that it would be funny if they got the same calls we did: "Kai-en san-ju pun mae des. Kai-en san-ju pun mae des. This is your thirty minutes call. Thirty minutes before the show to start."
And we discussed whether it would be fun or not to have to do 3 shows on your birthday. Which, by the way, isn't that bad.
I caught some really crazy video of the appearance (shown below), and shortly after that, the show was over, and we joined the crowd moving steadily towards the exits.
And that, my friends, is the story of how I Bonzai'ed the Emperor of Japan with thousands of people watching.
The rest of my glorious day with Evan consisted of meandering through Roppongi and Hiro-o and seeing AMAZING cars (he knows a ton, I know nada), eating delicious Japanese Mexican food at La Jolla
and shopping in the crowded streets of Shibuya. But, as usual, best to brave the crowds on a national holiday here cuz the sales are AWESOME.
I do, however, I have one complaint.
And it's not toward Japan.
Shocking, I know.
Whilst in the international market Azabu in Hiro-o I nearly crawled under a rock and died from reverse culture shock. Seriously.
There was a woman chewing out, and I mean CHEWING OUT, the manager of the store in the middle of the produce section for something to do with ingredient lists or who-knows-what. Which devolved into "How can you not see that I'm unhappy" and "I'm shopping here and this is unacceptable" and other incredibly rude ways to speak to a member of the service industry.
And it got so embarassingly bad, that I made Evan leave and walk to the other side of the store with me so as not to witness this incredibly awkward conversation.
And to that woman, I say WTF? Seriously, what the freak, gai-jin lady? You are chewing out someone in a foreign country in ENGLISH. Someone who has provided an INTERNATIONAL market and foreign goods for your comfort and delight. And you are embarassing your fellow foreigners by making a scene at someone who is providing a service to you. Someone who has learned another language for you. Someone, who, in any country should be treated with respect, but we're talking about JAPAN here where people go out of their way to make you comfortable and feel at home. Above and beyond.
So seriously, lady, WTF? You are the kind of foreigner that gets people hated, glared at, and left on the side of the road in Nikko. And to you, I kindly request, go home and terrorize no one. You obviously do not respect the Japanese enough to live here. No matter what the problem may have been, you had no right to make such a public spectacle in this respectful country.
Thanks for ruining it for the rest of us.
Oh. And we stumbled upon the SCARIEST street performer EVER. One that is not appropriate to post on the internet. And I walked away scarred and scared for life. Japanese people can be kinky and weird. And I never need to see anything like that again!
But, I like I said. I "bonzai"-ed the Emperor. And that's pretty darn cool.
